Webslinger

AIS (Air Induction System) Removal

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Materials:
2- 1/2" compression unions
2- 1/2" compression caps
Vacuum Cap

Here we see the bike stock with the AIS system in place. It consists of the black canister and the silver tubing around the cylinders.

Remove the shifter side forward controls for better access.

Remove the 3 allen head bolts holding the outside case of the canister.

Here we see the guts of the AIS system

Remove the 2 phillips screws to the left of the inside unit. Tap on the end of your screw driver to loosen these up a bit before you attempt to turn them.

Remove the guts from the black canister.

Here we have the empty canister housing. You will notice the three phillips screws attaching the canister to the frame. These things were installed at the factory with a very good lock tite. Save yourself the trouble and just use your dremel and a fiberglass cut off wheel and cut off the heads of the screws. The housing will then slip right off the mounting screws.

Here we have the mounting screws. We went simple and just used our dremel and a fiberglass cut off wheel and cut off the screws close to the frame. We then used the dremel to grind the leftover screw down flush and painted for a totally stealthy appearance.

Before grinding down the screws and paint.

Here we have the vacuum line coming from the front cylinder. We used a vacuum cap here. You'll need this line later on when you synch your carbs. For now simply tuck it up under the tank.

Tubing Removal. Use a 6mm socket and extension to loosen the hose clamp on the front and rear cylinders where the tubing connects. Tap the hose with a screw driver and hammer to make sure it is loose.

Remove the airbox to get to the bolt on the inside of the front cylinder. Lossen all the allen head bolts in the engine cases and remove the brackets holding the tubing in place. Remove the clamps holding the vacuum hose that holds the tubing together and remove all tubing from the motor.

Re-install the airbox.

Next simply install the compression fitting with the cap on one end on the leftover elbows exiting the cylinder. They look big and bulky but with a shot of black paint they virtually fade into the back ground and aernt nearly as noticible. After researching all the various methods to plug this system we decided this would be the quickest and easiest for the time being until we decide to try the freeze plugs. But for now it holds well, runs good and best of all no more damn popping. Not to mention a much cleaner appearance on the bike. Also note on the following pictures that the side stand switch and bracket have been removed also. If you have any questions or comments on this mod feel free to e-mail us and we will do everything we can to help. Good luck.

West Texas Outlaw Customs offers these instructions as a tool to help people out. We will not be responsible if you screw up your bike.